Bazaars, Banks and Baramulla

Living in Kashmir: A Year of People, Places and Memories

Bazaars

Bazaars of all sorts were fascinating to browse. From beautifully carved wooden goods, embroidered treasures, silver work, gems and more, through to everyday household pots and pans. There was always something to catch the eye. Fine Indian cottons were a favourite for the summer months. The vendors were happy to pull out any materials requested as they were anxious for a sale. Bargaining was expected so one could always purchase for a fair price without being unfair to the seller. 

I had taken my Bernina 707 sewing machine with me in the allowed luggage shipment so I enjoyed spending time sewing when there was reliable power. Tailors were keen to make clothes too, so many took full advantage advantage of this skilled service.

Srinagar bazaar

Material shop, Kotli bazaar - Azad Kashmir

Banks and banking

These were the days before plastic cards. We left Australia with Traveller’s cheques to be cashed when needed. The Grindlays bank in Srinagar was where we visited to obtain cash for local spending and to pay wages to the house boy. It was close to six weeks before the UN made a first payment and we were issued with a Chemical Bank cheque book. Cheques were widely accepted for larger transactions but rupees preferred for small purchases.

Unbeknown to us the bank had “lost’ the money paid by the UN. While we went about cheerfully writing cheques for various purchases, it later emerged that the funds were being drawn from someone else's account entirely. The bank took three months to untangle the mess, and even after twelve months had passed, there were still outstanding matters that had not been fully resolved. The combination of the UN and bank bureaucracies both administered from afar was not a happy marriage.

Baramulla

Baramulla - via Open Map

On the Indian side, Baramulla is about 55 km from Srinagar. In our time, the valley had many fruit orchards. We were friendly with an Australian couple working there through the summer months for the UNDP (United Nation Development Project). Ray was sharing his expertise as an apple orchardist from Tasmania.  

The road to Baramulla was lined with trees, and a wide variety of vehicles, from lumbering trucks to nimble tongas, made their way along this busy thoroughfare.
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Travelling light

Heavy loads, cars, trucks and pedestrians in the distance

A winter visit

Some of the Indian drivers and guards working for the UN, were stationed in the military barracks at Baramulla. One driver was very keen for us to visit in mid-winter to see a popular Clint Eastwood movie showing at night. We rugged up for the journey in the jeep. The movie itself was forgettable as it appeared that most of the dialogue and many scenes had been cut out, just the action packed sequences were shown. It lasted for only 40 minutes. The audience, so it seems, were well satisfied.

It was a very cold night and at the conclusion of the movie snow was falling. We were offered a tot of the rum issued to the soldiers. This proof rum was issued to those serving at high altitude in cold or challenging conditions. It helped boost morale and maintain body warmth in harsh conditions. The rum appeared in a small glass, a generous serve. I was unaware of its potency and not liking rum, but not wishing to be impolite, I swallowed the lot rather quickly. 

The trip back to Srinagar passed me by in a warm and thoroughly cheerful blur. Yes, I was quite drunk having never previously consumed alcohol of such strength!  

This post first appeared on earlieryears.blogspot.com by CRGalvin